Semiformal and almost always packed, this longstanding option is one of the top Italian restaurants in town. The menu is dauntingly long and covers cuisines from all regions of Italy -- I like coming with a group so I can taste a wide range of the choices. The heart and soul of the menu is a range of pastas and risi. Everything is very well done. I like the risotto salmone e rucola (salmon and arugula) and the house penne, which comes in a thick tomato sauce with eggplant, capers, anchovies, and both green and black olives. For something more exotic, try a risotto with frogs' legs. More substantial entrees include captretto alla messinese, a goat dish cooked with tomatoes, rosemary, and potatoes, as well as veal Bolognese. There's an inviting antipasti buffet and a less-outstanding dessert buffet. The wine list is long, but much heavier on Chilean and Argentine offerings than on those from Italy. Try to grab a window table in the main dining room, which features wood floors and a few Tiffany-style lamps. There's a cozy but viewless dining room below the main room, which is used for overflow. Note: This place is closed on Saturday.
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